Gusty conditions can do a lot of damage
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The average mature neighborhood has many varieties of trees, of differing ages. (These are along one side of Del Campo Park in Carmichael.) Watch for wind damage among trees this weekend. (Photo: Kathy Morrison) |
Can your garden cope with wind? This weekend, it’s likely you’ll find out.
According to the National Weather Service, Northern California will experience very windy conditions now through Saturday night.
“Gusty winds are expected today into tomorrow,” says the Sacramento NWS office. “The strongest winds will be in the Sierra with gusts to 50 to 70 mph-plus. Be prepared for downed trees and tree limbs, potential power outages, difficult driving conditions for high-profile vehicles, and impacts to outdoor recreation.”
Sacramento is expected to see gusts of more than 40 mph – enough to topple a tree. At greatest risk are conifers – redwoods, pines, firs and other evergreens. Their foliage catches the wind like a huge sail.
Also at risk are trees weakened by drought – which is potentially most of our urban forest. Although overall water has been good this winter, tree roots may have shrunk dramatically after years of low water. With fewer healthy, strong roots, trees have less support to hold them upright.
Contrary to popular belief, lessening inner foliage or branches on limbs of redwoods and other big trees – a pruning method nicknamed “lion tailing” – does not prevent wind damage. Instead, it weakens limbs and makes them more likely to break off.
But it’s not just big trees that can suffer wind damage, say the UC Cooperative master gardeners.
“Wind can damage bark, flowers, foliage, fruit, and limbs of most any tree or shrub. High winds can severely damage or kill trees, such as when major limbs fail (break) or the trunk topples to the ground.
“Wind-damaged leaves become necrotic along the margins and tips and drop prematurely,” they add. “High wind can break flowers, foliage, and limbs and tear and shred leaves, sometimes called tatters.”
Wind damage looks a lot like other kinds of problems, say master gardeners.
“Wind injury to foliage can resemble damage from frost, hail, herbicide damage, salinity and water deficits,” master gardeners say.
Some plants just tend to get more wind damage than others.
“Plants that grow fast, become tall, and have broad, thin leaves are usually less tolerant of wind,” say the master gardeners. “Smaller plants and those with narrow leaves with a thicker cuticle better tolerate wind.”
Insect damage or disease also can weaken branches and make them more susceptible to wind damage. Prune off diseased wood before it falls off.
For more tips on helping plants cope with wind, see these UC master gardener tips:
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/ENVIRON/wind.html
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Food in My Back Yard Series
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Garden Checklist for week of April 27
Once the clouds clear, get to work. Spring growth is in high gear.
* Set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* Weed, weed, weed! Don’t let unwanted plants go to seed.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Start thinning fruit that's formed on apple and stone fruit trees -- you'll get larger fruit at harvest (and avoid limb breakage) if some is thinned now. The UC recommendation is to thin fruit when it is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Peaches and nectarines should be thinned to about 6 inches apart; smaller fruit such as plums and pluots can be about 4 inches apart. Apricots can be left at 3 inches apart. Apples and pears should be thinned to one fruit per cluster of flowers, 6 to 8 inches apart.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.