Now's the best time for soil solarization
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Here's my raised bed, all ready for the sun to do its work.
(Photos: Kathy Morrison) |
There's at least one good thing about our hot, no-rain summers: We can easily put the sun to work for us in the garden, solarizing our soil.
Why solarize? It's a natural way to control pests, pathogens and weeds.
My first 4-by-8-foot raised bed was built 20 years ago on the south side of our small backyard. This replacement bed, constructed with better lumber, is 18 or 19 years old. It was my tomato-growing workhorse site for a few years, until I joined my local community garden and moved tomato production there.
Since then the raised bed has had an erratic production history. Beans did well for awhile, and peppers two years. Onions went in at least one year. I most recently had strawberry plants there, but they were not happy and died more often than not. The survivors were moved to grow bags, where they are doing well.
Since I didn't have to plant anything in the home raised bed this year, I decided to try solarizing it to kill off any lingering pathogens (such as wilts), weed seeds or nematodes. We had an overgrown podocarpus tree nearby removed earlier this year, clearing the way for an intense solarization experience.
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The soil needs to be soaked first for
solarization to work. Those remaining
podocarpus leaves also have to go. |
-- Remove any debris from the site and rake it flat.
-- Water it well, down at least 12 inches.
-- Dig trenches along the edges where the plastic will be anchored.
-- Cover tightly with plastic; anchor the plastic with soil (and rocks, in my case).
-- Wait four to six weeks (or more) for the sun to do its work.
-- Uncover and plant. (Though I likely will do a soil test before I put any plants in.)
The plastic sheet I used is 1.5 mils thick, which is within the recommended range for durability. It's not perfectly clear, but clear enough. Black or colored plastic is not recommended. Rolls of clear plastic can be found at most home improvement stores -- look in the paint section.
My raised bed's been set up for a week now. The soil temperature's already up to 98 degrees and the underside of the plastic shows many nice bubbles.
I'll report back later in the summer on my progress. Meanwhile, here's a great guide to solarization from the UC Integrated Pest Management program, if you want to try it. If a video is more useful to you, the Sacramento master gardeners filmed a solarization guide for the 2020 Virtual Harvest Day; see it here .
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Food in My Back Yard Series
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of May 4
Enjoy this spring weather – and get gardening!
* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. Time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.
* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.
* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.
* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters. (You also can transplant seedlings for many of the same flowers.)
* Plant dahlia tubers. Other perennials to set out include verbena, coreopsis, coneflower and astilbe.
* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia and verbena.
* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.
* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.
* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.
* Add mulch to the garden to maintain moisture. Mulch also cuts down on weeds. But don’t let it mound around the stems or trunks of trees or shrubs. Leave about a 6-inch to 1-foot circle to avoid crown rot or other problems.