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Care for the future, care for the trees

They are more vulnerable than we realize

Broken tree branch
This gash was left after a huge limb broke off a blue oak
recently. (Photos: Kathy Morrison)

It takes a long time for a mature tree to die.

Yet we've all seen it, maybe without noticing the symptoms. The canopy grows sparse, or it starts dropping leaves and twigs at the wrong time of year, or there are holes all over the trunk. Years may go by before a windstorm blows it over. With the shade in that area now gone, the plants nearby are affected, and maybe the character of the site changes.

Trees are easily taken for granted.

I was reminded of this earlier in the week when I strolled over to our neighborhood park. I hadn't been in awhile, and I always enjoy seeing the changes that fall brings. Also, a flock of magpies lives there, and the birds are amusing to watch.

This park has been part of my landscape for nearly 25 years -- I've photographed most of the trees at one time or another -- so it was a bit of a shock to see a giant wound on my favorite blue oak. This tree stands probably 50 feet tall, just to the side of a small park building that formerly was a restroom and now is a utility room for the park district. A small muddy creek runs nearby about 10 feet away.

Blue oak before branch broke
Here's what the full-size blue oak looked like in January 2018.

The tree had recently lost its leader, its largest vertical limb, probably in the windstorm that blew through Oct. 26. About half the canopy was gone. Chunks of the giant branch still were on the crushed roof of the utility building. Parks district workers clearly had a big job just removing the limb from where it fell-- more cross-sections littered the ground nearby. The rounds were so big -- roughly 24 inches across -- they could have been mistaken for parts of a tree trunk.

Blue oaks ( Quercus douglasii ) are tough native trees. In the book "Oaks of California" (Cachuma Press), the authors note, "Although other oaks are resistant to drought, few of them combine all the mechanisms of opportunism, conservation, tolerance and resiliency that are known in blue oak." The tree also is one of the "Shady Eighty," trees recommended by the Sacramento Tree Foundation. This particular specimen undoubtably was growing here long before the neighborhood was built in the 1960s.

So why did this giant lose such a big section at this time?

Tree after branch broke
And here it is earlier this week.


The best clue is in those huge cross-sections of limb, and in the gash on the side of the tree. There were dime-size holes through the center (the pith and heartwood) of the rounds, and some of them were not fresh. The broken bit of branch still attached to the tree shows holes and rot.

This likely is evidence of borer insects, which years ago sensed a stressed tree and made this oak their home. Clearwing moths are among the insects whose larvae leave dime-size tunnels in trees, but it could have been another pest. SacTree notes of the blue oak: "Wood and root rots occur, borers and chewing insects can also be a problem."

Whatever caused the branch to weaken and break, this tree may not survive the injury. The remaining canopy, with the exception of one other smaller branch, still sported the tree's distinctive blue-green leaves. But since the tree stands next to a public walkway, it may pose too much of a liability to remain where it's grown for so many years. If it goes, I will miss it. Its fate also serves as an excellent reminder to care for our trees, before we're forced to notice them.

If you have questions about caring for any trees,  not just oaks, the Sacramento Tree Foundation is an excellent source of information: sactree.org

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Garden Checklist for week of May 12

Get your gardening chores and irrigation done early in the day before temperatures rise.

* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. Time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.

* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.

* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions. This heat will cause leafy greens and onions to flower; pick them before they bolt.

* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters.

* Plant dahlia tubers. Other perennials to set out include verbena, coreopsis, coneflower and astilbe.

* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia and verbena.

* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.

* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.

* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.

* Got fruit trees? If you haven't already done so, thin orchard fruit such as apples, peaches, pears, pluots and plums before they grow too heavy, breaking branches or even splitting the tree. Leave the largest fruit on the branch, culling the smaller ones, and allow for 5 to 6 inches (or a hand's worth) between each fruit.

* Thin grape bunches, again leaving about 6 inches between them. For the remaining bunches, prune off the "tail" end, about the bottom third of the bunch, so that the plant's energy is concentrated in the fruit closest to the branch.

* As spring-flowering shrubs finish blooming, give them a little pruning to shape them, removing old and dead wood. Lightly trim azaleas, fuchsias and marguerites for bushier plants.

* Add mulch to the garden to help keep that precious water from evaporating. Mulch also cuts down on weeds. But don’t let it mound around the stems or trunks of trees or shrubs. Leave about a 6-inch to 1-foot circle to avoid crown rot or other problems.

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