Wait until April before putting tender summer transplants in the ground
They're out there in the nurseries, and they're enticing, but ... if you buy tomato plants this size now, don't put them in the ground just yet. Kathy Morrison
This is spring fever, Sacramento-style. As soon as afternoons warm into the 70s, gardeners rush to the nearest nursery to buy their favorite seedlings – tomatoes!
That weekend has arrived, with both Saturday and Sunday comfortably in the 70s (and a lot less windy).
It’s OK to buy tomato seedlings now; just don’t plant them in the ground yet.
According to the National Weather Service, Sacramento will enjoy high temperatures in the mid 70s through the first official day of spring Tuesday, March 19. Later in the week, this warm wave will cool back into the 60s – with the possibility of more rain next weekend.
And there’s the rub: It feels warm but not warm enough. Overnight lows are chilly, too, dipping each night to 50 degrees or colder. Those conditions keep soil temperatures on the cool side.
That’s the real issue: Soil temperature – not air temperature – is key to early tomato success. Tomato roots need soil temperatures above 60 degrees, preferably 65 to 70, say master gardeners and university research. Without warm soil (and cozy roots), tomato transplants just sit there and sulk.
Planting in too-cold soil actually can hamper the plant for its entire life, say the experts.
Friday’s local soil temperature: 54.4 degrees.
Judging by the long-range weather forecast, we likely won’t see soil temperatures consistently above 60 degrees for at least two more weeks; 65 and up, four weeks or more.
After Wednesday, only one more day in March is predicted to be over 70 degrees. In that same time period, the Sacramento forecast calls for six days of rain. That’s actually normal for March in Sacramento.
So, wait on tomato planting – at least in the ground.
Instead, transplant tomato seedlings into 1-gallon black plastic pots with a good planting mix. The plastic absorbs heat and warms the soil inside the pots. That gives the seedlings a valuable head start and lets them form healthy root balls before going into the ground.
In late April, transplant the larger tomato plants – root ball and all – into the garden. They’ll be healthier and grow faster than vines transplanted directly into the ground in March.
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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3
November still offers good weather for fall planting:
* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.
* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.
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