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Garlic part of winter solstice tradition


To harvest garlic like this in late June, plant garlic now.
(Photo courtesy Penn State University Cooperative Extension)

Plant cloves on the shortest day for summer harvest



Plant on the shortest day; harvest on the longest. That’s the garlic mantra.

Is the winter solstice really the best day to plant garlic? And summer solstice the peak of harvest?

To develop mature bulbs, garlic needs about six months. In Sacramento and parts of California where hard frosts are rare, that solstice-to-solstice schedule is both easy to remember and effective. It’s a tradition for a reason: It works.

To celebrate today’s first day of winter, plant some cloves and watch them develop through the seasons.

We really love garlic. Americans now eat four times as much garlic per capita as we did in 1980, averaging about 2.5 pounds per person a year. Although garlic has been grown in the United States since the 1700s, it was primarily considered an Asian medicinal herb until the 1920s. That’s when Italian immigrants in California first popularized its culinary assets.

Thanks to Gilroy and other garlic centers, California is The Garlic State, leading the nation in production. Historically, the two most common commercial varieties are the aptly named California Early and California Late, according to UC Davis and state ag reports. Both of these California favorites are “softneck” or silver skin varieties. They rarely produce seed stalks. Instead, they concentrate their energy into making new bulbs.

Love of the stinking rose has brought interest to many other varieties. Creole, the purple-skinned garlic commonly grown in Mexico, is a “hardneck” garlic. Other popular hardnecks include Roja, German Red, Valencia and Continental. Also called top-setting garlic, it produces a strong stem or “scape” (itself an unusual vegetable) and little bulbils (like mini bulbs) on top. Those bulbils can be planted to produce new garlic plants.

Besides adding flavor to summer meals, garlic plants also act as a natural pest deterrent. But they can be finicky. Avoid planting garlic in the same spot where onions, garlic or other alliums have grown in the past two or three years; that cuts down on potential pest problems and other issues.

Here are more tips for garlic-growing success:

* Garlic needs good drainage. It can’t stand soggy feet. Plant in raised beds or containers for best results. Add a few scoops of well-aged compost before planting.

* Plant the individual cloves, not a whole bulb. Break apart a bulb within 24 hours of planting; that preserves the piece of “foot” at the base of the clove that will form new roots.

* Plant the cloves 2 inches deep with the pointy end up, spaced 6 to 8 inches apart. Water once, then let rest. They’ll need water once a week through January and early February; usually, rain will take care of that irrigation.

* After the cloves sprout, water once or twice a week. Avoid soggy soil (that prompts rot), but keep soil from completely drying out.

* Garlic doesn’t like competition; remove any weeds around the young plants.

* For late birds, garlic can be planted in spring for late summer or fall harvest.

For lots more on growing great garlic, visit the Vegetable Research and Information Center resource page from the UC Cooperative Extension:
https://vric.ucdavis.edu/veg_info_crop/garlic.htm

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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3

November still offers good weather for fall planting:

* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.

* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.

* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.

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