Hormone imbalance and heat fluctuations linked to deformed flowers
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This About Face grandiflora rose is displaying
fasciation in its spent bloom. (Photo: Debbie
Arrington)
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They look like something out of “Little Shop of Horrors”: Weirdly distorted buds that sprout out of the center of a spent rose. And this summer, more seem to be popping up on rose bushes throughout Sacramento – as well as other plants.
It’s another garden oddity likely tied to extreme fluctuations in temperature: Fasciation.
This phenomenon – strange, unexpected growth of terminal buds – is a genetic mutation of a plant’s growing tip. It’s believed to be triggered by a hormone imbalance that may be caused by outside factors such as roller-coaster temperatures or exposure to herbicides (such as Roundup).
I can’t help it; I’m fascinated by fasciation. In roses, it looks like a whole spray of monstrous buds is trying to wiggle out of the center of a bloom – often before the first flower has dropped its petals.
I have one hybrid tea – Perfect Moment – that always seems to display some fasciation in the heat of summer (and it did). But this August, I’m also seeing fasciation on bushes that never showed it before. That includes About Face, a very tall grandiflora; this week, several of its spent blooms sprouted the weird deformed buds.
The roses were not exposed to Roundup or other chemicals; it had to be the heat.
The good news: It’s not contagious. Snip off the weird flower and the plant will (fingers crossed) grow a “normal” bud.
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Fasciation also can show up in sunflowers. This was a
bloom that exhibited some weird extra growth. (Photo: Kathy
Morrison)
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In strawberries, fasciation creates giant double or triple berries. The cockscomb celosia – with flowers that look like rooster heads – are a result of fasciation.
Heirloom tomatoes – particularly those with ugly bottoms – are believed to be another case of fasciation as a desirable trait.
Fasciation also can produce flat, fused stems or tufts of fused growth, often referred to as “witches’ broom.” Besides heat and herbicides, fasciation may be caused by bacteria, in particular Rhodococcus fascians , say UC master gardeners.
For more on fasciation: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FLOWERS/DISEASE/fasciation.html
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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3
November still offers good weather for fall planting:
* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.
* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.
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