Wait until soil temperature warms to 65 degrees
These Juliet tomatoes are just the right size for planting -- if it were April. As it is, February is too cold, yet the seedlings were already on display for sale this past Wednesday. Kathy Morrison
Is it too early to plant tomatoes? Yes! It’s mid-February and still winter, no matter the daytime air temperature or how much sun. Ignore those tomato seedlings now showing up in nurseries; if planted in the ground now, they’ll only suffer.
But to know for sure about tomato planting time, feel your soil. More specifically, measure its temperature.
Soil thermometers, available at nurseries, are a handy tool that will prevent costly planting mistakes. Know which seeds and tender transplants need soil temperature-wise before condemning them to a frosty demise.
Right now, our soil is too cold for even cool-season crops to get comfortable. According to UC Davis’ weather stations, soil temperature at its Russell Ranch test site on Friday afternoon (Feb. 17) was 46.3 degrees, measured about 8 inches below the surface; 46.5 degrees about 4 inches down. Cool-season vegetables such as beets and lettuce need 50-degree soil for root development and growth. When soil is too cold, the seed can rot before it sprouts.
Tomatoes, peppers and other summer crops require soil at least 60 degrees to get started; they’ll still just sit there and not really grow, but at least their roots won’t feel like they’re freezing. To get off to a strong start, tomatoes prefer at least 65-degree soil when transplanted.
And that’s almost 20 degrees warmer than our soil is now.
When will our soil reach 65 degrees? Most likely in mid to late April, our traditional tomato planting time.
In the meantime, if you've already succumbed to the lure of those tomato seedlings, any plants that look ready to go into the ground can be transplanted into 1-gallon black plastic pots. Line the pots with several sheets of newspaper for extra warmth and insulation before filling with potting mix. The black plastic will absorb heat and help root development inside the pot – while our native soil remains cold for several more weeks.
In their cozy black pots, baby tomato plants can grow strong and develop a sturdy rootball. Once their future planting bed warms up into the 60s, transplant the seedlings – with rootballs intact – into their summer homes.
For a look at UC Davis’ weather station reports and soil temperature: https://atm.ucdavis.edu/weather/uc-davis-weather-climate-station/.
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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3
November still offers good weather for fall planting:
* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.
* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.
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