Easy irrigation method: Use a bucket with a hole in it
A bucket with a hole (taped over until ready to use) makes an easy, slow irrigation aid for a small tree. Photo courtesy Sacramento Tree Foundation
Something to think about while taking a break in the shade: Our trees are a lot better off this summer than they were last year.
Summer of 2022 capped three years of epic drought. Summer of 2023 follows one of Sacramento’s wettest winters on record.
So heading into this very hot July, our trees had some reserves they didn’t have last summer. Heavy winter rain gave them a deep, lasting soaking. A cooler-than-average spring helped them grow.
“Most trees are doing a lot better – they’re showing a lot of growth and look very healthy,” says Alex Binck, community arborist for the Sacramento Tree Foundation. “Especially trees that have been in decline for the last several years such as redwoods; those trees are flush with new growth and just look a lot more green.”
The task this summer is helping those trees maintain their recent health gains. Sacramento’s notorious heat can bake away soil moisture quickly.
“We had a phenomenal year with a lot of rainfall and soil moisture,” Binck notes, “but we had years of moisture deficit. We’ll be back into dry conditions by late summer. There definitely will be soil stress by the end of summer.”
Trees – especially younger or newly transplanted trees – are at their most vulnerable when weather changes from cool to hot rapidly – which we have seen this past month. “Especially that first big heat wave after nice, cool weather,” Binck says. “Look at temperatures and increase irrigation if temperatures are going to spike.
“Trees seem to adapt to temperature changes over time, but that first heat can be challenging,” he adds. “With climate change, we expect to see more dramatic swings. For trees, dramatic swings can be more stressful.”
During July and August, young trees and recent transplants are the most in need of extra irrigation. According to SacTree experts, young trees need an extra 10 to 15 gallons of water a week in summer to get established and put down deep roots. The simplest way is to use a bucket with a hole in it.
The bucket method – applying water via a 5-gallon bucket – allows water to soak in slowly even in Sacramento’s heavy clay soils. If you just pour 5 gallons of water on the ground next to the tree, it will run off instead of soaking in. With a hose, it’s just a guess how much water you’re applying.
SacTree staff experimented and found a single 1/8-inch hole – located on the bucket’s side about 1 inch above the bottom – was most effective in delivering water at just the right rate. On the bottom, the hole got clogged with dirt. Multiple or bigger holes, the water drained too fast.
How do you use a bucket with a hole in it? Cover the hole with duct tape, fill the bucket, put in place, then remove the tape.
Place the bucket close, within a foot of the trunk, to newly planted trees; their root ball still hasn’t spread out. Alternate sides with each bucket application. As the tree grows, move the bucket farther away from the trunk. The feeder roots that need the extra water most are located along the dripline at the edges of a tree’s canopy.
In the first year, give a young tree an extra 5 gallons two or three times a week, SacTree recommends. In the second year, make it 10 gallons once a week. At three years, increase the extra water allowance to 15 gallons but apply it every other week.
Mature trees benefit from extra irrigation, too. Instead of a bucket, use a soaker hose encircling the tree at its dripline and set a timer for one hour. Do that once a month.
Here are more tips to help your trees through the heat of summer:
* Irrigate thoughtfully. Check soil moisture with a probe or moisture meter before automatically turning on the sprinklers. Trees prefer deep, infrequent irrigation; it encourages deep roots.
* Remember to water trees at their dripline – the farthest reach of their foliage – and not their trunks; their thirsty roots are at that outer edge.
* To retain moisture during hot summer months, make sure to mulch. Binck recommends wood chips such as those available free from SMUD. Leave a wide circle around trunks to avoid crown rot.
For more tree tips: https://sactree.org.
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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3
November still offers good weather for fall planting:
* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.
* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.