Berries from this parasitic plant (and popular holiday decoration) feed hungry songbirds in winter
The white berries of mistletoe are excellent food for songbirds. Courtesy UCIPM, photo by Jack Kelly Clark
Forget about kissing; mistletoe is for the birds.
Forever tied to romantic holiday traditions, this evergreen has a mixed reputation: Good for seasonal smooching, kiss of death for trees.
An evergreen parasite, mistletoe sucks water and nutrients out of its host tree, slowly contributing to the tree’s decline. It’s spread by birds that eat the plant’s sticky white berries and poop out seeds on branches. (“Mistletoe” derives from the early Anglo-Saxon words for “dung” and “twig,” or “dung on a twig.”)
Mistletoe – long considered a bane for foresters – actually may be a good thing for forest health and wildlife.
According to USGS research, forests with abundant mistletoe have more nesting songbirds – in some cases, three times more nests were recorded. Why? Mistletoe berries may be the ultimate superfood for our feathered friends.
All 10 essential amino acids have been found in mistletoe berries as well as lots of carbohydrates. That feeds birds in winter when little else may be available.
Tangles of mistletoe also provide nesting areas. Their “roots” where they attach to the tree create more nesting cavities.
Other animals are dependent on mistletoe, too. Squirrels and chipmunks love its berries. Deer and elk eat its leaves. Mistletoe flowers support honeybees and native bees as well as butterflies, say the researchers.
Meanwhile, mistletoe’s effect on host trees is not as extreme as commonly thought. As an evergreen parasite, leafy mistletoe species produce some of their own food through photosynthesis. Its dependent on its host tree’s survival; otherwise, it loses its source of water and other nutrients. Mistletoe can grow on a large oak for decades without killing the tree.
(Dwarf mistletoe, which is nearly leafless, can be a lot more destructive to its host tree.)
More than 1,500 species of mistletoe have been identified worldwide. Most of the mistletoe we see in Sacramento is broadleaf mistletoe (Phoradendron macrophyllum). Its berries are especially popular with cedar waxwings and robins.
The nation’s most common species is American mistletoe (Phoradendron serotinum), which ranges from New Jersey to Florida to the Southwest. Native to Mexico, it commonly attacks oak trees across North America.
American mistletoe also conquered the holiday market. It’s commercially harvested and sold worldwide as “Christmas mistletoe.”
Some nearby mistletoe are not native. “An exotic species of broadleaf mistletoe, Viscum album, was intentionally introduced by Luther Burbank at the turn of the 20th century and can be found in Sonoma County parasitizing alder, apple, black locust, cottonwood, maple, and pear trees,” says the UC Cooperative Extension pest notes.
Despite its positive impact on birds, mistletoe can be problematic. According to UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, broadleaf mistletoe can infest several different kinds of landscape trees including alder, ash, birch, box elder, cottonwood, locust, silver maple, walnut and zelkova plus some varieties of flowering pear. Modesto ash in particular is very susceptible. In the Sierra foothills, dwarf mistletoe (Arceuthobium spp.) infests pines, firs and other conifers.
“Broadleaf mistletoe absorbs both water and mineral nutrients from its host trees,” say the master gardeners. “Healthy trees can tolerate a few mistletoe branch infections, but individual branches may be weakened or sometimes killed. Heavily infested trees may be reduced in vigor, stunted, or even killed, especially if they are stressed by other problems such as drought or disease.”
New, young trees, which can be stunted by mistletoe, are at risk from infestations of nearby older trees.
The most effective control? Pruning. Cut out infected branches, particularly while the mistletoe plants are small. If a tree is badly infested, remove the whole tree, say the master gardeners.
Some trees are rarely if ever infested. That includes Bradford flowering pear, Chinese pistache, crape myrtle, eucalyptus, ginkgo, golden rain tree, liquidambar, sycamore, redwood and cedar.
For more about mistletoe, check out the UC Cooperative Extension pest notes: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7437.html.
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Food in My Back Yard Series
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of May 11
Make the most of the lower temperatures early in the week. We’ll be back in the 80s by Thursday.
* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. Time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.
* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.
* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.
* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters. (You also can transplant seedlings for many of the same flowers.)
* Plant dahlia tubers.
* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia and verbena.
* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.
* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.
* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.
* Add mulch to the garden to maintain moisture. Mulch also cuts down on weeds. But don’t let it mound around the stems or trunks of trees or shrubs. Leave about a 6-inch-to-1-foot circle to avoid crown rot or other problems.
* Remember to weed! Pull those nasties before they set seed.
* Water early in the day and keep seedlings evenly moist.