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Why are Sacramento roses still blooming?

It's time to start pruning; how to cue bushes to take a winter nap

These Rainbow Sunblaze roses are in full bloom on Dec. 27, bright spots on a rainy winter day.

These Rainbow Sunblaze roses are in full bloom on Dec. 27, bright spots on a rainy winter day. Debbie Arrington

It’s almost New Year’s Day and my roses are still (stubbornly) in bloom. Blame our mild winter weather.

Near-freezing temperatures cue roses (and other shrubs and trees) to drop their leaves and enter winter dormancy. But when temperatures stay above normal, these deciduous plants keep on growing and producing more flowers. They feel like it’s still October, not almost January.

My roses, it seems, are pretty accurate predictors of temperature. This has been a relatively warm December in Sacramento.

Through Tuesday, December has averaged more than 3 degrees warmer than our average median (50.7 degrees vs. 47.4 average), according to the National Weather Service. And our December daytime highs have been almost 5 degrees above normal (61 degrees vs. 56.2 average).

Meanwhile, our nightly lows have been warm, too (40.3 degrees vs. 38.6 average). Although we’ve flirted with frost, Downtown Sacramento has not recorded one night under 32 degrees so far this month.

We can’t do anything about the weather. But we can go ahead and prune our roses – they need it. Consider pruning as telling your roses to take a forced vacation; they need to take a winter break.

Pruning is crucial for healthy rose bushes. It’s a chance to rid the plant of fungal-bearing foliage and eliminate diseased canes. It improves air flow in and around the bush (another way to cut down on fungal disease) and also keeps bushes from overwhelming their space.

Normal pruning season in Sacramento runs from early- to mid-December through early February. By late February, bushes will be pushing out lots of new growth. (And with this warmth, bushes already are sprouting new growth.)

What happens if you don’t prune? New growth will sprout out of the top of the old growth. If your bushes are already 5 or 6 feet tall, they’ll tower overhead by spring – and just keep going.

Pruning is crucial to disease control. Old foliage (on or off the bush) may harbor fungal spores that will immediately infect healthy new growth (especially if there’s moisture in the air – like today). And in an effort to shed damaged foliage, the bush may shed all its leaves next spring – when the bush needs those leaves to produce energy – and roses.

Speaking of rain, recent storms have really brought out botrytis (gray mold). It turns rose buds into brown yucky mush. Before pruning, pluck off infected blooms and petals and discard.

Here are more tips from master rosarian Baldo Villegas on how to prepare for pruning:

* Check your irrigation system to make sure that all roses get adequate water. Decrease or stop watering once rain starts.

* Let hips form to encourage dormancy. They also provide colorful interest in the late fall and winter garden.

* Remove any diseased blooms or fallen petals and foliage from the ground around the roses. That cuts down on fungal disease.

* Acquire the proper tools for rose pruning and winter chores: One pair of bypass pruning shears, one pair of goatskin gloves, one pair of knee pads, one pair of 24-inch loppers, one folding pruning saw.

* Find spots to plant more roses. It’s the start of bare-root season, too!

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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3

November still offers good weather for fall planting:

* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.

* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.

* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.

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