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How to save your plants during a heat wave

Soil moisture is key to survival in triple-digit temperatures

Wet tomato on vine with blue cage
Spraying tomato plants with water early in the
morning helps fight spider mites and aphids while
refreshing the leaves and raising the humidity
around the plants. The runoff helps the plants, too.
(Photos: Kathy Morrison)

As the weather forecasters like to say: We’re having a heat wave!

Triple-digit days dominate our Sacramento forecast at least through Saturday. In its Excessive Heat advisory, the National Weather Service warns, “Drink plenty of water; don’t wait until you’re thirsty.”

That same advice applies to your garden. Plants with roots in soil that stays evenly moist – not soggy – have the best chance of surviving, even thriving during this heat wave.

The secret is to keep the soil from completely drying out – not on top, but down 4 to 6 inches in the root zone. Use a moisture meter to check. Or use a long-handled screwdriver; if you can’t shove it in 6 inches, you need to irrigate.

Potted plants in containers are especially at risk. The rootball contracts as it dries out, leaving gaps around the sides of the pot. When you pour water on a severely dry potted plant, the water tends to run out the sides without ever penetrating the rootball. In such cases, you may need to submerge the pot in water, let soak for a few minutes, then drain. Don’t let the roots sit in standing water; they’ll suffocate.

Wilting in the heat of the afternoon is normal for many plants, especially those with big thin leaves such as hydrangeas or squash. But if plants are wilted in the morning, water immediately.

Burlap or shade cloth can help prevent sunburn
on tomatoes or other summer vegetables.

Are there brown spots on your peppers or bleached-out areas on tomatoes? For plants showing signs of sunburn, erect temporary shade. This can be as simple as draping some cloth (burlap, sheeting, etc.) over a trellis or tomato cage.

Spider mites in particular are loving this heat; this itty-bitty arachnid thrives in hot and dusty conditions. If you see wispy webs covering leaves and stems of shrubs and other plants, knock them down with a strong stream of water from the hose.

This summer shower destroys their webs and washes the mites and dirt off the plants. It also disrupts what attracted the mites in the first place – dry, dusty leaves.

Wash mites off plants early in the morning, so the plant’s foliage has all day to dry. Fungal diseases usually aren’t a problem right now; powdery mildew can’t stand anything above 90 degrees.

This same approach also works against aphids. Showering plants is not wasting water; the runoff will go to the plant’s roots. Most plants also absorb moisture via their foliage.

Avoid spraying neem oil or other treatments (often recommended for pest control). The oil coats the plant’s foliage and increases its sensitivity to extreme heat. Instead of helping the plant, the oil “cooks” its tender leaves.

And put off any fertilization until weather cools back to normal. Feeding increases a plant’s water needs. During this heat, it just adds to plant stress.

For more on heat stress and plants, check out this advice from the UC Integrated Pest Management Program: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/ENVIRON/thermal.html .

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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3

November still offers good weather for fall planting:

* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.

* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.

* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.

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