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Take out turf with 'lawn lasagna'

Sheet composting feeds soil while smothering grass and weed

leaves
Leaves may be among the most
valuable free assets in the garden.
Beyond mulch or compost, they're
useful in making "lawn lasagna."
(Photo: Kathy Morrison)

Got leaves? Put that fallen foliage to good use; make “lawn lasagna”!

Actually, “lawn lasagna” is a form of sheet composting and an easy way to remove turf areas or weedy patches as well as revitalize soil. It uses an ingredient that we have in abundance right now – dead leaves – and is probably the easiest way to take out a lawn.

Lawn lasagna does not “cook” fast; it takes months to work its magic. But started now, the planting area will be ready by spring. There’s no digging or sod cutting; you’ll be able to plant right through the layers into the (much healthier) soil underneath. No tilling necessary!

Sheet composting feeds the soil while smothering the grass and weed seed. It also maintains soil moisture, which is critical for both microorganisms and future plants. One small space can be done at a time — or do the whole lawn.

If renovating a lawn area, remember to turn off the sprinklers before you begin – and mark those sprinkler locations (long sticks are good). Those sprinkler heads will become buried under the mulch layers and may be difficult to locate (and retrofit) later.

To make your own lawn lasagna, follow these steps for each area of turf to be removed:

1. Mow the lawn as short as possible. Leave clippings in place.

2. Water. Really give the area a deep soaking.

3. Cover with two or three layers of cardboard or several thicknesses of newsprint (no glossy paper). Overlap the edges 4 to 6 inches.

4. Water. Thoroughly wet the cardboard or newsprint.

5. Cover with 1-inch layer of steer or horse manure or compost. Water lightly.

6. Cover with a 2-inch layer of fall leaves, straw, shredded newsprint or other dried or “brown” material. Water lightly.

7. Cover with a 1-inch layer of “green” material, such as more manure, lawn clippings, garden trimmings or vegetable scraps. Cut green ingredients into 2-inch pieces or smaller. Water lightly.

8. Layer more browns and greens until the area is under at least 12 inches of material. Water lightly after each layer. Finish with a brown layer.

9. Wait. Water only occasionally as needed; compost needs moisture to break down.

10. Plant. In spring, the bed will be ready; no digging necessary. Plant directly through layers.

If sheet mulching an area other than lawn, follow these same steps. Instead of mowing, cut down any weeds and leave in place.


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Garden Checklist for week of May 19

Temperatures will be a bit higher than normal in the afternoons this week. Take care of chores early in the day – then enjoy the afternoon. It’s time to smell the roses.

* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. If you haven’t already, it’s time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.

* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.

* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.

* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters.

* Plant dahlia tubers. Other perennials to set out include verbena, coreopsis, coneflower and astilbe.

* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia and verbena.

* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.

* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.

* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.

* Don’t forget to water. Seedlings need moisture. Deep watering will help build strong roots and healthy plants.

* Add mulch to the garden to help keep that precious water from evaporating. Mulch also cuts down on weeds. But don’t let it mound around the stems or trunks of trees or shrubs. Leave about a 6-inch to 1-foot circle to avoid crown rot or other problems.

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