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FIMBY: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Succession planting allows for a more consistent flow of home-grown food

These Blue Ridge kale plants are maturing all at the same time, likely not what a home gardener would want, which is why succession planting is advised. (These are in the Vegetable Garden at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center; produce goes to food banks.)

These Blue Ridge kale plants are maturing all at the same time, likely not what a home gardener would want, which is why succession planting is advised. (These are in the Vegetable Garden at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center; produce goes to food banks.) Kathy Morrison

Note: This is the second in our weekly series devoted to Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY).

“When can I plant?” That’s the most common question from new gardeners when they first get their plot in our community garden.

It depends – not only on what you plan to plant but when you want to harvest.

Too often, enthusiastic newbies (and some more experienced gardeners) plant their entire summer garden all at once with everything in the ground on the same day. Then, they’re overwhelmed when the majority of plants actually produce – with ripe veggies ready to pick all at the same time.

(Did you really think you were going to eat that much zucchini?)

It’s not just summer crops; right now in our community garden, heads of cabbage are growing bigger by the dozens. Since transplants come in six-packs, some folks planted 12 or 18 heads. That’s a lot of coleslaw!

When planning a garden, think about what you and your family realistically eat, including how often. Want a salad every night? Plant lots of lettuce and greens. But to keep those salads coming, stagger planting dates.

Seed packets and plant labels list how many days it will take that crop to reach harvest stage. This is valuable information; not all veggies (even of the same species) mature at the same rate.

Then, plan for “succession planting.” Instead of everything going into the ground at once, succession planting allows for a steady flow of transplants (or seeds) coming into the garden and mature veggies going out. By staggering planting dates, harvest can be staggered, too, and your garden can provide a more consistent (and consumable) bounty.

Get a calendar and do the math. If it takes 45 to 60 days for a head of loose-leaf lettuce to mature, plant a six-pack of seedlings every three weeks now through April. That’s 30 heads of lettuce before the end of June. (OK, you’ve really got to LOVE salad to plant that much.)

When planning, always consider seasonal temperatures. Some crops prefer cool weather, others need it hot. For example, lettuce turns bitter and bolts (goes to flower) in summer heat; switch to planting heat-resistant greens such as chard during those warmer months.

Remember: Summer veggies need summer heat. Just because you may see tomato seedlings in the nursery now doesn’t mean it’s time to plant them. Warm-season favorites such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, beans and squash need warm soil (above 55 degrees) to grow; otherwise, those transplants will just sit there and sulk (if they survive at all).

Another reminder: DO NOT plant what you won’t eat. That’s a waste of time, water, space and money. If nobody in your family really likes kale, skip the dino kale seedlings no matter how cute the name.

Think about your own schedule, too. Are you going on a month-long vacation in July? Don’t plant tomatoes in early May; they’ll be hitting their peak when you’re out of town.

To get your planning started, consult this planting guide compiled by UC master gardeners for Sacramento County. It offers the best planting windows for success for a wide range of crops from asparagus to watermelon. Find it here: https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/117117.pdf

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Garden Checklist for week of May 11

Make the most of the lower temperatures early in the week. We’ll be back in the 80s by Thursday.

* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. Time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.

* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.

* Harvest cabbage, lettuce, peas and green onions.

* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters. (You also can transplant seedlings for many of the same flowers.)

* Plant dahlia tubers.

* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia and verbena.

* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.

* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.

* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.

* Add mulch to the garden to maintain moisture. Mulch also cuts down on weeds. But don’t let it mound around the stems or trunks of trees or shrubs. Leave about a 6-inch-to-1-foot circle to avoid crown rot or other problems.

* Remember to weed! Pull those nasties before they set seed.

* Water early in the day and keep seedlings evenly moist.

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