Apples are moderately drought tolerant and can get by with twice-monthly irrigation. (Photo: Debbie Arrington)
Fruit and limb drop common during high temperatures, say master gardeners
When temperatures go up, fruit starts to drop. And this summer, so do branches.
Fruit drop and limp drop are both signs of heat stress in fruit trees, a staple of backyard gardens throughout the greater Sacramento area.
Sacramento County master gardener Quentyn Young has seen the effects of triple-digit heat in the demonstration fruit orchard at the master gardeners’ Fair Oaks Horticulture Center.
“We lost quite a few branches from a combination of heat and high winds,” says Young, a longtime professional nurseryman who oversees the 60-tree orchard.
Sudden fruit drop – which often happens during early triple-digit days in summer – is another sign of heat stress.
“One of our citrus trees dropped all its fruit all at once, and that’s not uncommon,” Young said. “When something happens like that, you also have to ask: Did you stop watering it? Was that tree getting its water from a nearby lawn that’s now not getting watered? Or is there something wrong with your irrigation?”
If fruit is ripening on the tree, wait to cut back on irrigation, if possible. Developing fruit needs that water, and so does the tree during this period. After harvest, the tree will be better able to withstand a drastic reduction in irrigation.
Other signs of heat stress: Brown edges on leaves or curling foliage. Heat-stressed fruit trees also tend to attract spider mites.
Many fruit trees had a heavy fruit set this spring. All those baby plums and peaches stress branches, too.
“Regular thinning helps trees,” explains Young, who also is manager of Fair Oaks Boulevard Nursery in Sacramento. “There’s less stress on the limbs – you’re taking off weight – and the tree will need less water. That’s important during drought like right now.
“Thinning also helps set a better harvest next year,” Young adds, “so you’re helping your tree with two harvests at the same time.”
See the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center’s demonstration orchard (and ask questions, too) during Harvest Day, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Aug. 6. Hosted by the UC Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners of Sacramento County, this free event is a celebration of Sacramento area gardening. Fair Oaks Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., Fair Oaks, in Fair Oaks Park. Details:
https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/
.
Tips for saving water around fruit trees
Sacramento County master gardeners recommend these ways to save water this summer while keeping fruit trees healthy and productive:
– Prioritize your fruit trees. Young trees that are still developing need regular irrigation. Pay special attention to rare specimens or sentimental favorites; those are the trees you want to keep healthy.
– Remove dying or non-producing fruit trees. This is a good time to make some decisions. Replant with a water-wise (or more productive) alternative in fall or spring.
– Prune overgrown trees – but not too hard or all at once. Over-pruning adds to tree stress. Instead, reduce the tree’s height by no more than one third, pruning a little more each year for three years. Do this after they finish fruiting.
– Irrigate early in the morning to cut down on evaporation. Water deeply, then wait until soil feels dry 4 to 6 inches below the surface. (Take a trowel and look.)
– Skip the fertilizer. It prompts fast growth and that needs more water.
– Mulch around fruit trees with bark, wood chips, leaves or straw, about 3 to 4 inches deep. Avoid mounding mulch around the trunk; instead, clear a circle about 6 inches away from the tree.
– Weed. Unwanted plants under trees compete for water.
Which fruit trees need the least water?
Most drought tolerant (water deeply once or twice a month): Almonds, figs, olives, persimmons, pomegranates.
Moderately tolerant (water twice a month or once a week): Apples, apricots, cherries, pears, prunes, walnuts.
Least tolerant (water weekly or twice weekly): Nectarines, peach, citrus.
Source: UCCE Master Gardeners of Sacramento County
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Garden Checklist for week of Nov. 3
November still offers good weather for fall planting:
* If you haven't already, it's time to clean up the remains of summer. Pull faded annuals and vegetables. Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Now is the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. This gives them plenty of time for root development before spring growth. They also benefit from fall and winter rains.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Keep planting bulbs to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* This is also a good time to seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while dormant.
* To help prevent leaf curl, apply a copper fungicide spray to peach and nectarine trees after they lose their leaves this month. Leaf curl, which shows up in the spring, is caused by a fungus that winters as spores on the limbs and around the tree in fallen leaves. Sprays are most effective now.
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